Amboise is in the heart of the Loire Valley and famous for 2 things: (1) In the 1500's, it was the capital of France and the royal palace was here, not in Paris, and (2) Leonardo Davinci is buried here.
The Chateau Royale, home of the king, was the first Renaissance palace built in France. Most of the construction was done by Charles VIII, who unfortunately died at 28 when, on his way to a royal tennis match, failed to duck going through a passage way and hit his head on an oaken lentil and then again when he fell to the floor. His successor, Francois I was apparently shorter and happily navigated the castle without mishap.
Francois I was a huge fan of Leonardo Davinci and somehow persuaded Leo at age 64 to ride a mule over the alps (with the "Mona Lisa", the unfinished "John the Baptist," and one other painting in his leather saddlebag) and reestablish himself at the French court as "First Painter, Architect, and Engineer" to the French King. In return, Leo was given a rather princely salary and a free chateau (Clos Luce) just because Francois enjoyed conversations with Leo. Leo continued to paint and invent until he died 3 years later. His crypt is in the St. Hubert Chapel on the grounds of the royal residence, a testament to the esteem the king held for Leo.
We went to our first French market on Sunday in Amboise, and this one puts our little farmers' market in Quepos to shame. These French vendors pull up in big vans, and the whole side of the truck opens and unfolds into refrigerated display cases of cheese, fish, meat, etc. There are trailers that open up to reveal rotating spits with scores of whole chickens roasting and with the drippings falling onto pans of potatoes roasting below. One vendor had huge vats of vegetables and chicken pieces stewing on giant burners. The aromas were delicious!
You could also buy clothing, leather goods, shoes, quilts, table cloths, jewelry, and wine in addition to the usual fruits and vegetables. I bought some heirloom tomatoes, and at the end of the market, we took a bottle of wine, some stinky French cheese, and some big juicy nectarines down to the edge of the Loire and had a picnic under blue skies and fluffy white clouds. Joie de vivre!
Delicious indeed........
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