Thursday, September 29, 2011

Day 58: Leaving Paris for Home

Today is the last day of our vacation to France. Tomorrow we fly back to Costa Rica. It has been a wonderful trip, to say the least. The history, the geography, the architecture, the culture, the food, the wine--all of it a great experience. We thought we would share some observations about France and the French people with you.


Contrary to what we hear in the US, the French people are not rude.

They are more formal than Americans--greeting each other with "Bon jour, Madame" or "Bon soir, Monsieur. And even strangers at the next table say "Au revoir" to you when they get up to leave. They prioritize politeness and expect it from others, even Americans. We think this is a good trait.

We found the French to be quite helpful and friendly, especially if your French is really bad when you approach and try to speak to them in their native language. They feel sorry for you and will speak to you in English.

The French have a different way of living. They prioritize personal time and relationships. People are more important than projects. They live at a slower pace. Lunch commonly takes 2 hours. In short, they work to live, they don't live to work as we do in America. And even starting positions of employment receive 5 weeks of vacation per year.

Pets are important. So much so, that dogs are allowed almost everywhere--in stores, restaurants, shops, and on the Metro.

The national dog of France is not the poodle. It's the Yorkshire terrier. For every poodle we saw in France, we must have seen 30 Yorkies!

 
The French can find a reason to have a celebration--rollerblading, techno music, a full moon. Any reason is a good reason to celebrate life.

Bread has great historical importance in France. Revolutions have started over the price of bread! Nothing will do but a daily fresh baguette from the bakery around the corner.

The French smoke too much. And some of them like really stinky cigarettes! But only outside, because 3 years ago, they outlawed smoking inside any public venue including shops, bars, and restaurants. Sadly, some of the sidewalk cafes can get a little foggy.

They don't pick up their dogs' poop. They don't even curb their dogs. It is a daily sight to see smeared and stepped-in piles of poop on the sidewalks as you walk along. This is especially treacherous if you are wearing flip-flops! They really should have a law for this. If they can outlaw burkhas, why can't the make it illegal to leave your dog's poop for others to step in?


Their fashion sense is different--in a good way. They are very creative in their dress. Scarves are a common fashion accessory on men and women, and they are appropriate with and will dress up any outfit--even a t-shirt.

Mixing colors and patterns of fabric in unusual ways is also common, and fun to see. They seem to have the attitude, "Try it! If it works, great. If it doesn't, don't wear that again."

But there are parameters. If you get too far off their "norm" they look at you funny. Like this guy who walked through Paris wearing Vibram 5-Finger shoes. He got lots of "Don't wear that again" looks.

When they find out you are American, they want to know what you think about George W. Bush. If you say you are glad he is out of office, they smile and will engage you in conversation. If you say he was a great American president, they smile at you with pity and move on. Guess is was the "Freedom Fries" thing.

They eat a lot of butter and cheese, and for the most part, they are thin. Maybe it's related to the smoking. And in Paris, they walk a lot. Maybe that's it.

Like the light in France, the butter is different. Special. If the Greeks got nectar from the gods, then that must be where the French got their butter. It is delicious. On anything. Which is why they put so much of it in their cooking, I guess.

Love the taste of Camembert cheese. Just wish it didn't smell so bad!

Good ideas we saw in France:
Cargo trucks load from the side and have heavy plasticized canvas sides that close in the cargo. Surely it takes less time to load a truck this way.

All the highways have climbing lanes on the far right side for trucks, and the trucks are required to go up hills in that lane. Wish Costa Rica would adopt this one!

Facilities such as parking garages, especially the ones underground, and some hotel hallways have lights with motion sensors that turn the lights on when someone enters and turn the lights off when no one is present. Great energy saving idea.

Energy-saving escalators only move when someone steps on the entrance plate to get on. Sadly, thinking the escalator was simply out of order, we walked up and down a lot of stairs before we figured this out.

Toilets all have two flushes: big flush and small flush, depending on your current situation. This saves water. We have this in Costa Rica too. Unfortunately, in France, as in Costa Rica, it works about half the time, so the water savings may no be so great.

At intersections, all the traffic lights have a big light above the intersection and a small set of lights mounted on the light pole to the right at eye level for the first few drivers in line at the red light. Better than craning your neck to see the big light above.

Many of the old buildings have been fitted with new windows. The look just like the original windows, but they are made of modern materials, open side to side like the originals, but can also be tilted open from the top. This preserves the historical architecture of the building.

In Paris, taxis and buses have their own dedicated lane on the street, so if you are in a taxi, you go faster than if you are driving your own car.
But the Metro is the best and fastest way to get around. We loved using it.

Outside of Paris, most intersections have round-abouts, which we call traffic circles. They avoid the need for stoplights and thus avoid the need to sit at red lights with no cross traffic coming. Traffic moves faster this way.

We were blessed to be able to spend such a long time in France touring the country and getting to really know some of the people by spending relaxed time with them instead of running from monument to monument. But the castles and monuments are wonderful too, and reflective of a long, proud, and at times, turbulent history of a great country. We are ready to be at home in Costa Rica with our friends and with our puppies. So "Au Revoir" to France and "Buenos Dias" Costa Rica!

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

La Defense: The New Paris

In 1958, the city of Paris, responding to the demand for more business space for a burgeoning economy, and wanting to avoid destruction of historic buildings in Paris, began construction of La Defense. It is named for the statue La Defense de Paris commemorating the successful defense of Paris in the Franco-Prussian war. The name gives the development a military sound, but La Defense is all about business with 72 glass and steel skyscrapers and 180,00 daily workers employed there. It is the largest business-pupose development in Europe.
La Defense is anchored on its far west end by the Grande Arche. Completed in 1989 under President Mitterand, the Grande Arche is on a perfect alignment with the Axe Historique (Historic Axis) in Paris that starts at the Louvre to the east, runs through the Tuilleries Gardens and then the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and the Egyptian obelisk at the Place de la Concorde, along the Champs-Elysees, through the Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile (the Arc built by Napoleon I, and the one most Americans know as the Arc de Triomphe) an on to La Defense and the Grande Arch. All 3 arches are in perfect alignment.
Suspended double stairway inside the base of the Grande Arche.
Modern skyscrapers in La Defense.

More beautiful modern architecture at La Defense.
 Tim at La Defense.
A view along the Axe Historique with the Arc de Triomphe of Napoleon in the distance. This is the humming business center of modern Paris, and far distant architecturally and geographically from the historic areas of Paris we have been enjoying for the past three weeks. It is beautiful in its own way, but we prefer the limestone buildings and the wide avenues of the "old" Paris.

Monday, September 26, 2011

A Day at the Opera

The Opera Garnier is perhaps the most opulent monumental building we have visited in all of France, including all the cathedrals, chateaux, and royal residences we have seen. It was one of the main projects during the rebuilding Paris under Emperor Napoleon III during the Second Empire. A young unknown architect at the time named Charles Garnier won the design competition for the new opera house, and it is still known my his name today.
The style and decoration have been called Baroque Revival or Second Empire style, but it also has elements of Beaux Arts style. All of which is to say that this is one of the fanciest buildings you will ever see. The cornerstone was laid in 1861, but it was not completed until 1875. It was home of the Paris Opera from that date until 1989 when the opera company moved to the new, larger, and more modern Opera Bastille. Opera Garnier is still used for ballet performances and other cultural events.
 
The ground level entry foyer, even with all its ornate bronze lamps and stone carvings, is plain compared to the rest of the interior.
The Grand Staircase leading up from the entry foyer is theater in itself. First, it is huge. Second, the stone and marble carvings and the gilded bronze statuary are almost overwhelming. And third, it served as a theatrical set of its own during the Belle Epoque (The Golden Age of France) when Opera Garnier was built. The staircase along with the Grand Foyer were the places to see and be seen in Paris. Women dressed in ball gowns almost as elaborate as the statues swished up and down to be noticed. Since the theater has a capacity for 2,000 viewers, so opera goers needed a lot of space to show off before the performance and during intermissions.
View of the Grand Staircase from the Grand Foyer.

Two huge marble and bronze statues guard the entrance to the auditorium.
This is the Grand Foyer where opera goers could enjoy some champagne and mingling before the opera and at intermission.
One of two massive fireplaces at each end of the Grand Foyer. I am sure they were more for decoration, because this room is so huge, they never could have heated it.
 
Detail from the ceiling of the Grand Foyer.
The opulent red velvet and gold auditorium seats 2,000.
The chandelier in the auditorium weighs 6 tons. Opera Garnier is the setting for Gaston Leroux's 1910 gothic novel The Phantom of the Opera, as well as for the movies and musical by the same name. This chandelier never actually fell as it does in the Phantom story, but one of its counterweights did fall in 1896 and killed one person. That incident, plus the fact that the Opera Garnier has extensive cellars going down 5 stories for storage of props and sets, and also that it was built over an underground lake, spurred Leroux's imagination and the creation of the Phantom story as we know it.
Detail from inside the auditorium. There is so much gold in this building that it is a wonder there was any left over for the rest of us to enjoy gold jewelry!
With friends from America Chris Rizzo from New York and Thomas Farrell from New York and Manuel Antonio Costa Rica. Thomas lived in Europe for many years and when he visited us in Paris for 5 days, he took us to the BEST out-of-the way and secret restaurants in Paris!


Opera Garnier is a beautiful tribute to the time when France was the leading superpower of the world, and an example of why the French are so proud of their history and their architecture. It contrasts sharply with the ultra-modern Opera Bastille where we attended a production of Salome. Both buildings are beautiful in their own way.

Saturday, September 24, 2011

A Night at the Opera

The Opera Bastille is the modern opera house in Paris located on the Place de la Bastille about a block from our apartment in Paris. Inaugurated in 1989 on the 200th anniversary of the storming of the Bastille, this modern facility has a capacity for 2700. It was intended to replace the Opera Garnier, which we will visit next week. The Paris Opera was staging Straus's Salome at the time of our visit, so we decided to go.
The interior of the Opera Bastille is a beautiful example of modern architecture.
The proscenium over the stage.
Tim at the opera. He finally got to wear his white linen suit. He wasn't the only one. The Europeans don't have a rule about wearing white after Labor Day.
The cast at the end of the production. The set was magnificent. Salome is not a happy tale, and the music is not something you skip out of the theater humming to yourself. But it was an enjoyable production.
And after the opera, a short walk around the Place del la Bastille to a sidewalk cafe on the street below our apartment for bedtime dessert and a glass of wine. Opera tickets: $280. Wine and dessert: E 31. A night at the opera in Paris: priceless!

Friday, September 23, 2011

Luxembourg Palace Gardens and the Jacquemart-Andre Museum

In 1610, Queen Marie de Medici was so depressed after a crazed monk assassinated her husband, King Henri IV that she decided to move out of the gloomy, drafty old Louvre Palace and build herself a cheery new house in her native Italian style just to perk herself up.
The Luxembourg Palace sits on 60 acres of park land on the Left Bank near the Latin Quarter. After Marie moved out, the palace went through a series of owners, and eventually was the first home in Paris for Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte. Today it houses the French Senate and is not open to the public for tours. The gardens however are a public park enjoyed daily by Parisians. The large palm trees in the garden are in box planters and are taken inside during the winter.
Beautiful statuary and fountains dot the gardens.

The flowers are completely changed three times a year. Currently the gardens are planted in Fall colors
 

In addition to statues of humans, there are some lovely animal statues as well.
We had leisurely lunch in the gardens at Cafe de la Fountain in the French style: very slow with lots of conversation and people-wtching, and of course with wine, salad, cheese, and cafe to finish up. Then we are off to the Jacquemart-Andre Museum via the Metro.
Getting around Paris on the Metro is so easy. And fast! We bought Metro passes our first week here and use it every day.
Some of the subway stations are even pretty.
The Jacquemart-Andre Museum is the former home of a wealthy Parisian couple who lived during the Belle Epoque. Edouard Andre was heir to a banking fortune, and along with the Rothschild family, his family bankrolled most of the projects of the Second Empire under Napoleon III. A bachelor when he commissioned the construction of the house, he had not finished decorating it when he married Nelie Jacquemart. They had no children, so together they finished decorating the house with art works they collected in their travels. Nelie lived there until her death in 1912 and willed the house and its contents, including their significant art collection to the State as a museum.
The museum today offers an glimpse into the lifestyle of a wealthy Parisian couple of the Belle Epoque from the 1890's to World War I. Guests arriving by carriage drove up a curved carriageway to the second-level entry garden on the side of the house away from Hausmann Boulevard.
 A typical room with some of the artwork.
 At one end of the house is the winter garden, a large room with plants and a grandly theatrical staircase rising to the second level and a huge glass skylight.

Artwork is everywhere. This is the entrance to the "Italian Room."
Nelie's bedroom.
 Edouard's bedroom.
The tapestry salon, specifically built according to the measurements of the tapestries the Andres planned to hang here. So, how did wealthy Parisians live 100 years ago? Apparently a lot like royalty, only on a smaller scale. This house is much smaller than the Luxembourg Palace, but quite grand compared to homes today.
An example of the fine furniture the couple collected in addition to paintings and sculptures. We were happy to visit this house and see how "The Other Half" lived in glittering Paris of the late 19th century. But we were also glad that someone else has to dust all this stuff!